What I have to show you is my rebuildable piston squirter – this model is for retrofit to existing Porsche 911 cases. One of my other patents integrates the squirter assembly right into the case itself, which is the ideal solution, but this one here works basically as good.
I have rebuilt many Porsche engines and I am convinced Porsche never really gave much thought to rebuilding the motors. They are a new car company; I get it. But how many of these squirters are inoperative when you go to rebuild? How many don’t really pass the compressed air test? How can you really know if the insides of the squirter barrels are clean, and free of any debris?
That’s a lot of questions. Too many for my liking. I got sick thinking of not being able to access the insides of the squirters when building a really expensive motor, so I decided to fix it.
My requirements were as follows:
1. I did not want to have to tap the case or modify the case in any way. Whereas I am very comfortable modifying the case, I wanted to cater to the lowest level of home mechanic.
2. I needed to get at the complete inside of the squirter barrel so I could visually see what was inside.
3. I wanted to be able to rebuild the squirter without removing the barrel from the case.
4. I wanted the same performance as stock – meaning, leave the check valve in there to preserve idle oil pressure.
What I achieved was a steel barrel which is a light press fit into the case. This barrel has a cap, and the insides of the barrel contain the spring and the ball, just like stock. [img]http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads26/Squirter1513633082.jpg[/img]
The advantages of my squirter over a stock one are:
– ability to change the orifice size on the cap on the fly for more or less flow
– completely rebuildable and inspectable
– much easier to install than a stock unit
Which brings me to my next point. What is holding this thing in the case. I already know I am going to get many people who doubt the adhesive, but I am 100% comfortable with it.
The adhesive in question is Loctite 640, and its properties for adhering cylindrical bodies together are legendary. Take a look at the spec sheet for this product and you’ll see that it was tested for over 1000 hours in a bath of engine oil at 250 degrees and it did not lose an iota of strength.
Staking these things is not necessary; the factory did it because they were paranoid. In fact, a press fit is not necessary either, but I recommend it as an added, if unneeded measure of safety.
Lastly, we come to orifice sizing. Stock sizes are as follows:
911 – 1.0mm
930 – 1.5mm
964 – 2.0mm
Because the internal dimensions of my squirters are different than stock, my orifice sizing needs to go up 1/2mm to ensure the same flow as stock. Don’t worry, this was all extensively tested.
So my recommended sizes are:
911 – 1.5mm
930 – 2.0mm
964 – 2.5mm
Also, note that there are two barrel diameters available, just like stock. 6.0mm is the one you want if your squirter bores are real nice. If you buggered up your squirter hole, we make a 6.6mm oversize just like the factory.
Prices are $45 each, which includes the barrel, cap, spring, and ball. You’ll be able to order them off my site soon, until then drop me a PM.
Oh, and here is a video that explains the installation much better than this wall of text!
Let me know what you guys think!