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It’s been a very long time since we have posted anything on this case, and for good reason – we have been extremely busy.

The good news is this: We are now machining everything in house. Yes, you heard that right. No waiting for machine shops, no competing machining jobs, we now have our own 5 axis mill and we’re working as fast as ever.

Let me back up a few steps.

Originally my model was to have the castings machined at a local machine shop. This way I could supply the cases without having a bricks and mortar location. The problem with this is that we couldn’t ever get anyone to work on the case machining full time, because each of these machine shops was swamped with work. So the project stagnated.

By September of 2018 I’d had enough, and leased space for a shop. Oh, and I also ordered a $250,000 Haas UMC 1000 brand new.

The UMC 1000 is Haas’s newest machine and I was one of the first deliveries in the United State – the machine just got here a couple weeks ago. It’s a massive 5 axis mill and extremely precise, and now we can make any part we damn well please, on our own schedule, thank you very much.

Big shout out to Haas in Oxnard; once they learned what we were making with the machine, they sent down two of their techs as well as the production line supervisor of the UMC1000 to ensure the accuracy of the machine is the best it can be.

They spent two days at the shop tweaking the machine to squeeze out the best accuracy they could from it, and let me tell you, right now the machine is running an accuracy that is an order of magnitude better than the accuracy it comes from stock, which was already impressive.

We also have a new machinist in house, and his name is Harman Sokhi. He is a lifelong machinist that comes from a family of machinists….his dad has been a machinist and machine shop owner for 25+years.

We have the tools, we have the people, we are making the cases.

Check out the photos of the Haas techs proving the accuracy of this utterly ridiculous machine….that sports a 40x25x25 work envelope, through spindle coolant, wi-fi control, and accuracy to rival any machine on the planet.

Case Half Right Nearly Complete

When figuring out how to properly machine these cases for repeatability, keep in mind that there are three main factors we have to contend with:

1. We need to preserve the fidelity of the feature in question. This means that if we are making a threaded hole, for example, that the dimensions of the hole, the thread pitch, and the location of the hole on the casting have to be perfect. Obviously.

2. We need to preserve the repeatability of this feature by accurately programming it into the machining model so it can be duplicated over and over again.

3. We need to accommodate the limitations of the machine. We are dealing here with an extremely high end 5 Axis mill, but it has dimensional limitations that have to be observed and accommodated.

These three items are what take so much time, and this process would be very different if we were using another machine, and would be different even if another type of 5 axis would be used. So we are tailoring the machine model to the machine we have.

A machined case half in four easy steps….

That is the goal, anyways. We are diligently working to machine each case half in FOUR operations. Two on the one side, two on the other side. You’re probably asking  – what about the ends?

Well, we have adapted our machining model such that it works on a 5 axis machine, therefore there are only four “setups” or operations. The ends get taken care of during one of the four operations.

As usual, tons of handwritten notes and measurements. To say this is a complicated job is an understatement, but we are getting there.

New Product – Billet oil filter console

Whether you’re running a engine mounted oil cooler or one of the factory oil filter consoles, you’ll want to take a look at my new billet oil filter console. For starters, it looks amazing, quite unlike the factory offerings.

From a function standpoint, I have a big problem with the existing solutions. Not only is the engine mounted oil cooler pretty ineffective at actually cooling the motor, it doesn’t exist in the 964 / 993 models, so what does that tell you about it’s usefulness.

Filter console options are also limited; there are unicorns like the 959 and 965 filter consoles which aren’t available, leaving you with the sole option of using the 993 console which leaves much to be desired.

For starters, the 993 console doesn’t include the return line in the same fitting; Porsche makes you buy a separate widget to attach the incoming line. Additionally, the 993 console places the filter hanging vertically down, which makes it a bear to actually replace the filter.

My console angles the filter like the unobtainum 965 console, but not only that, it includes a female connector for a -16AN line so that you don’t have to attach multiple pieces. You get a clean install, a beautiful looking product rendered in aircraft grade aluminum, and you get a filter that’s easy to change and access.

If you’re looking to add a filter to your pressure circuit like the later cars, this is the one you want.

Doesn’t require modification of your engine tin (or anything else for that matter). You will, however, need to do something with the early fan shroud which has a duct specifically for the engine mounted oil cooler. We suggest blocking it off, or switching to a late shroud.

Price – $395, available HERE

Introducing my new Patent Pending Rebuildable piston squirter

What I have to show you is my rebuildable piston squirter – this model is for retrofit to existing Porsche 911 cases. One of my other patents integrates the squirter assembly right into the case itself, which is the ideal solution, but this one here works basically as good.

THE PROBLEM
I have rebuilt many Porsche engines and I am convinced Porsche never really gave much thought to rebuilding the motors. They are a new car company; I get it. But how many of these squirters are inoperative when you go to rebuild? How many don’t really pass the compressed air test? How can you really know if the insides of the squirter barrels are clean, and free of any debris?

That’s a lot of questions. Too many for my liking. I got sick thinking of not being able to access the insides of the squirters when building a really expensive motor, so I decided to fix it.

My requirements were as follows:
1. I did not want to have to tap the case or modify the case in any way. Whereas I am very comfortable modifying the case, I wanted to cater to the lowest level of home mechanic.

2. I needed to get at the complete inside of the squirter barrel so I could visually see what was inside.

3. I wanted to be able to rebuild the squirter without removing the barrel from the case.

4. I wanted the same performance as stock – meaning, leave the check valve in there to preserve idle oil pressure.

What I achieved was a steel barrel which is a light press fit into the case. This barrel has a cap, and the insides of the barrel contain the spring and the ball, just like stock. [img]http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads26/Squirter1513633082.jpg[/img]

The advantages of my squirter over a stock one are:
– ability to change the orifice size on the cap on the fly for more or less flow
– completely rebuildable and inspectable
– much easier to install than a stock unit

Which brings me to my next point. What is holding this thing in the case. I already know I am going to get many people who doubt the adhesive, but I am 100% comfortable with it.

The adhesive in question is Loctite 640, and its properties for adhering cylindrical bodies together are legendary. Take a look at the spec sheet for this product and you’ll see that it was tested for over 1000 hours in a bath of engine oil at 250 degrees and it did not lose an iota of strength.

Staking these things is not necessary; the factory did it because they were paranoid. In fact, a press fit is not necessary either, but I recommend it as an added, if unneeded measure of safety.

Lastly, we come to orifice sizing. Stock sizes are as follows:

911 – 1.0mm
930 – 1.5mm
964 – 2.0mm

Because the internal dimensions of my squirters are different than stock, my orifice sizing needs to go up 1/2mm to ensure the same flow as stock. Don’t worry, this was all extensively tested.

So my recommended sizes are:

911 – 1.5mm
930 – 2.0mm
964 – 2.5mm

Also, note that there are two barrel diameters available, just like stock. 6.0mm is the one you want if your squirter bores are real nice. If you buggered up your squirter hole, we make a 6.6mm oversize just like the factory.

Prices are $45 each, which includes the barrel, cap, spring, and ball. You’ll be able to order them off my site soon, until then drop me a PM.

Oh, and here is a video that explains the installation much better than this wall of text!

Let me know what you guys think!

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